Saturday, November 03, 2007

Paris Reviews - Balenciaga S/S 2008

Natalia Vodianova - It's been far too long!

Kinga Razjak - Just a bit creepy.

Carolina Pantoliano - The new Brazilian that I absolutely love.

Magdalena Frackowiak - Her name is a mouthful.

Nicolas Ghesquière is easily considered one of the greatest designers of our time, and with this latest collection for Balenciaga, he proves he deserves the accolades. What makes him so special is how deft he is at capturing the couture craftsmanship and attention to silhouette that Cristobal Balenciaga was obsessed with, while somehow managing not to dilute his own strong vision of a new woman. This collection was no different. Florals are coming back in a big way for spring, quite literally. The majority of the opening looks consisted of highly sculptural outfits composed of a different hyper-colorful floral pattern. The shoulders were pronounced, and every look was paired with some intensely graphic gladiator boots, courtesy of Pierre Hardy. Midway through the show came some toned-down separates that could actually look right in place on city streets (albeit some extremely chic ones). The commercial quality went right back out the door, though, as the show ended with a series of strong, monochromatic looks in stiff, shimmery, masterfully seamed and darted fabric. This certainly wasn't a collection of pieces meant to sell. There weren't the bevy of kitschy handbags and accessories that have come to make Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton shows such a repetitive spectacle. These were couture-quality clothes made for the ready-to-wear runway, if only to inject a bit of fantasy and a lot of brand identity into a runway season seriously lacking in both. For that, I thank Mr. Ghesquière. And when it comes down to the bottom line, it's shows like this that get women clamoring for those Balenciaga bags in droves.

No comments: