When Riccardo Tisci debuted his eponymous ready-to-wear line in Milan for the Fall 2005 season, it was a gothic masterpiece unlike anything else happening in Milan at the time. The collection recalled the works of other young upstarts like Olivier Theyskens, encompassing beautifully envisioned romanticism infused with a rich, dark edginess. Just as quickly as he was listed as one-to-watch, he was snatched up by Givenchy to take over the design helm for both ready-to-wear and couture. The word is that he got the job because he never once mentioned the legacy of Audrey Hepburn, who was Hubert de Givenchy’s muse, an influence that would continue to dominate the Givenchy legacy long past its relevance. In just 2 short years, he’s taken the house to places Ms. Hepburn never could have imagined. Instead of working within the same frameworks of the Givenchy name, Tisci threw it all out and the window and started fresh. His latest collection for the house had a naval/nautical theme, unique in Tisci’s flair for dramatic silhouettes and even more dramatic detailing. Bolts of pleated chiffon floated over thigh-high leather boots and under thick navy wool coats with oversized lapels embellished with gigantic gold studs. And in terms of what makes it to the selling floor, Tisci has consistently proved his ability to cut a mean pair of trousers and a sharp LBD. Now that the revival of the handbag division is also underway (as seen on the arms of the Olsen twins, among others), Riccardo Tisci’s Givenchy will be a force to be reckoned with.
Cross-posted via FabGrind and The Fashion Investor