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Lanvin's current menswear designer, Lucas Ossendrijver, has come up with a fall collection that is sure to please both current Lanvin fans and those who have yet to discover the classic/cool line that stores like Barneys New York and MAC in San Francisco have been buying up.
The look was charmingly carefree and clearly young-skewing, but it was also certainly appropriate for work. Ossendrijver offered a much better take on the recaptured youth concept that Thom Browne has often butchered.
Foulards en soie made a keen appearance in place of ties, especially in the slick steel grey that feels so modern right now. Rich chocolate velvet didn't seem outdated, but felt pleasingly unexpected as a piped, double-breasted blazer. The blazer was surprisingly fresh paired with loosely-tailored navy trousers, an over-sized, winter-white blossom at the lapel, and a bow-tie worn with a crooked insouciance. Glossy shoes (a Lanvin signature) featured much thicker soles than in years past, a trend that more conceptual designers like Raf Simons to Miuccia Prada have also embraced. Even the most traditional of gentlemen will pine for the sleek jackets and coats, cut in a flattering silhouette, a perfect cross between boyishly boxy and European trim. My favorites from the collection are
here, and the whole show can be found
here.
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