Thursday, March 01, 2007

Fall 2007 - Givenchy

Some of the silhouettes were very reminiscent of Nicolas Ghesquière for Balenciaga and some of the detailing (mainly the gigantic punk studs) were taken straight from last season Giles Deacon (that rhymed House of Holland style!), but nonetheless, Roberto Tisci is really settling into some sort of groove at Givenchy. Yesterday, he showed a romantic naval theme, something I would imagine would fit right in along the southern coast of France in the middle of last century, if that southern coast had a bit more dark, moody, militaristic elegance than I imagine it would have. And that is exactly why Roberto Tisci succeeds. He is difficult to pin down to anything specific, without seeming entirely derivative. At times, the fact that you can't pin him down turns out puzzling collections that don't ring true to either a Givenchy spirit, nor Tisci's own romantic inner goth. But when he gets it down, there are certainly hoards of lovely, sharply tailored coats and dreamy, desirable (but not overly sweet) chiffon frocks. He was on-trend with the magnificent fur collars on his sharp navy peacoats. His wide-leg sailor trousers certainly seem more forgiving than any skinny pants ever could. The vaguely nautical theme that he derived from his latest couture show seems somewhat diluted (excuse the pun), but this may still prove to be quite a commercial success. And that's what really counts in the end, right? Pics to come...

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