Tuesday, March 06, 2007

Fall 2007 - Nina Ricci

Soon after Rochas prematurely closed its doors, Nina Ricci swooped right in and poached one of the most creative young designers out there right now, Olivier Theyskens. Best known for his previously harsh, gothic gowns that Madonna and Gwyneth Paltrow screwed up on the red carpet when he was still designing for his eponymous line, Theyskens now has a chance to shine once more (and maybe this time it'll stick). Going in, everyone knew that his new line for Nina Ricci had to somehow define a house that hasn't had any clear identity. Ricci has been known for being pretty and feminine and expensive, in the vaguest of ways. So, Theyskens used the bottle of Ricci's most famous perfume, L'Air du Temps, as inspiration and direction. He also seemed to have been influenced by some mythical cross between Swan Lake and The Chronicles of Narnia. And the result? Lovely, incomparably romantic, floaty and brisk all at once. Theyskens completely recreated sports-inspired pieces into the softest blouson jackets and ballet tights. Feathers adorned the models' hair, and each look was a cross between some dreamy fantasy and some very sellable pieces (most especially the ribbon-embellished jeans). The colors were washed out shades of charcoal and silver, white and black. Near the end, color came into play with the same bright yellow that Reese Witherspoon so famously wore to the Golden Globes, as well as the slightest hints of purple and green. All in all, Theyskens had an amazing first outing at his new job, and I'm really curious to see where he goes next.

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